Each sip of cider drops a pin in a map. It suggests a whisper of sunshine, the scent of the earth, and a brief taste of an orchard that blossomed, bore fruit, and was harvested. Because at the heart of good cider there is only the apple.
Just like wine, cider is made from the whole fruit and, as with grapes, the individual variety of apple, the place where it was grown, and the weather during the year it grew, all impact upon its flavour.
So how can you navigate this rich landscape of fruit, terroir and vintage and find something you enjoy drinking?
Here in the UK, there are broadly two traditions of cider making. Eastern Counties cider - produced in places like Kent, Sussex and Suffolk - is generally made with dessert and culinary (or cooking) apple varieties, with familiar names like Braeburn, Cox’s Orange Pippin, and Russet. These apples produce ciders that are light, acidic and made to refresh. Brothers Sam and Tim Nightingale make cider on their family’s fruit farm in the Weald of Kent. Their Wild Disco cider is a 5.5% medium-dry sparkling cider, made from 100% wild-fermented Kentish Discovery apple juice. Zingy and bright with red apple aromas, this is a great place to begin exploring.
West Country cider - produced in Herefordshire, Worcestershire, Gloucestershire and the southwest of England - is made from traditional cider apples such as Kingston Black, Harry Masters Jersey, or Dabinett. This cider possesses a balance of acidity, sweetness, and tannins, which can imbue it with complexity, astringency, and bitterness. Ross-on-Wye Cider & Perry Company won the coveted Best Drinks Producer title in the BBC Food & Farming Awards 2019. Their 5.6% Single Variety Foxwhelp Cider showcases the bittersharp nature of this, one of the oldest recorded apple varieties, and gets straight to the core of West Country cider.
Cider has come of age in recent years and is no longer the sole preserve of student parties or rowdy camping trips. It is a drink to be savoured and shared with friends, and - just like beer and wine - it goes remarkably well with food. Little Pomona’s Table Cider - a 7.3% seasonal blend of cider apple varieties – is a deliciously drinkable dry cider that will complement pretty much any meal, and the 750ml bottle means you can share the conviviality that comes with this versatile drink.
Whether you prefer your cider zesty and acidic, or bold and tannic, there’s never been a better time to explore the different varieties on offer. Why not pick up a couple of bottles or cans and bring the soul of the orchard right into the heart of your home?
Emma Inch is a multi-award-winning freelance writer and audio-maker, and the former British Beer Writer of the Year. She has written for a number of national and international publications, and also produces creative audio and podcasts for the drinks trade. You can find out more about Emma at www.fermentationonline.com and follow her on Twitter at @fermentradio
